At approximately 2 p.m. on July 6, two climbers (males, age 13 and unknown) were attempting to descend from the South Peak via the Pleasant Overhang rappel station on the west face. They had chosen to simul-rappel but did not know they needed two 70-meter ropes to complete the full rappel (or two 60-meter ropes if using an intermediate station).

They unknowingly rappelled past the intermediate station to just above the roof on the second pitch of Pleasant Overhangs (5.7) and did not have the technical ability to ascend their ropes to regain the station. They were able to move to a stance, and another party nearby attempted to assist them by suggesting they climb the second pitch of Pleasant Overhangs and rappel from there. The climbers were unsure about their ability to climb the second pitch, and after seeing a bolt on the nearby Pleasant Exposure (5.7 sport), they decided to continue their descent using it. They then rigged a second rappel from a carabiner on the single bolt.

At approximately 2:15 p.m., they began simul-rappelling again, with the older climber descending much faster than the younger climber before losing control for unknown reasons and rappelling off his end of the rope. Since they were simul-rappelling, his fall unweighted the counter-balance and, according to two eyewitness accounts, the younger climber then fell approximately 100 feet to the ground. The younger climber impacted the top edge of a very steep dirt slope, collapsing the slope and tumbled an additional 30 feet.

Nearby climbers and local guides responded immediately. Guides contacted emergency services and, based on the length of the fall, requested a helicopter for evacuation. The younger climber never lost consciousness after the fall and suffered injuries to his left wrist, left femur, and right foot. Additionally, he had multiple lacerations and abrasions. Rescuers maintained spinal precautions as they placed him in a litter and utilized numerous low-angle rappels to reach Roy Gap Road and a waiting ambulance. The older climber, having fallen only ten feet, had no obvious injuries.

ANALYSIS

This accident was the result of multiple and compounded errors, beginning with a lack of familiarity with the descent options at Seneca. Reading the guidebook and knowing the required rope length and locations of descent anchors would have given the climbers safer options.

Simul-rappelling is an advanced technique and requires careful execution. There are several ways to close the system and prevent a climber who loses control from breaking the essential counter-balance. These include tying knots at the ends of the rope, friction hitch (third hand) backups, and a tether between the climbers, allowing one climber to stop and control the other’s descent in the event that one of the climbers loses control of the brake strand.

Finally, tunnel vision while in a stressful situation is extraordinarily difficult to self-identify, and other climbers are often in a position to spot an unseen problem. If, as happened here, another party offers suggestions, take this as an opportunity to stop and reexamine your system and plan. (Sources: Nick Ingalls and the Editors.)