On June 11, Doug (52) and his partner were planning to lead Ecstasy Junior, a popular two-pitch 5.4 on the lower west face of the south peak of Seneca. They opted to begin the climb from above the traditional ramp, eliminating a half pitch of vegetated 5th-class climbing. About 10 feet into his pitch, the leader slipped on wet rock, falling to the ground and fracturing his leg. (Source: Nick Ingalls.)

ANALYSIS

The night before there had been significant rain in the area, and the rock was still wet. This was the primary cause of the fall. There are few good gear options here, and the leader had placed no protection before his fall. Waiting for the rock to dry can make the difference between a 5.4 route being an enjoyable cruise or a dangerous undertaking. (Sources: Nick Ingalls and the Editors.)