Stranded – Unable to Find Rappel in Darkness
Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Gate Buttress Area
Salt Lake County Search and Rescue (SLCOSAR) was called out October 12 around 9:15 p.m. to assist three experienced out-of-town climbers who were unfamiliar with the area (one male and two females). The trio had climbed a long traditional route known as Tingey’s Terror (5.7), completing all seven pitches, but when they nished they were unable to find the way to the rappel station. After scrambling around until after dark, and with a cold night setting in, they called for help.
An SLCOSAR team went to the base of the wall and talked with the climbers several times on the phone while guiding them down toward a rappel station, with the help of large lights. The climbers were then able to rappel two pitches to the SAR team’s location and walk back to the trailhead. None of the climbers had any injuries.
ANALYSIS
All the climbers had headlamps but were unable to find the descent and wisely called for help rather than risk a fall in exposed terrain. The most frequent rappel descent from Tingey’s Terror is at the Schoolroom area, which involves a substantial scramble down to the west and is fairly difficult to locate in daytime, let alone once it is dark. With three climbers planning a long route in an unfamiliar area, they would have been wise to start earlier, leaving ample time to nd the descent route before dark. (Sources: Salt Lake County Search and Rescue and the Editors.)