Karl Egloff (Ecuador) broke the speed record for the West Buttress of Denali on June 20, running and climbing from Kahiltna base camp to the 20,310’ summit in 7 hours 40 minutes. His round trip from base camp was 11 hours 44 minutes. Both marks were faster than the previous records, set by Catalan legend Kilian Jornet (AAJ 2015); Egloff ’s ascent time was more than two hours faster.

Unlike Jornet, who used skis on much of the route, Egloff traveled on snowshoes or foot. He cached supplies and clothing along the route and was supported by a friend. The Ecuadorian, who also holds speed records on Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, described his Denali climb in episode 20 of the AAJ’s Cutting Edge podcast (see below).

– Dougald MacDonald