The Zaalaysky Range, which includes Peak Lenin (7,134m), forms a border between Kyrgyzstan in the north and Tajikistan to the south. The Western Zaalaysky runs from the confluence of the Kyzyl-su and Muk-su rivers to the Ters-Agar Pass. Its highest point is Sat Peak (5,900m), and it contains many unclimbed summits of 4,000–5,000m. This is a complex area of high, glaciated summits, long valleys, many rivers, and sensitive border crossings. Our goal was to explore unclimbed summits in this range. The expedition was organized by the International School of Mountaineering (ISM) and was led by Adrian Nelhams.

We initially visited the Altyn Dara valley on the way to Ters-Agar Pass. However, we were prevented by the Kyrgyz military from accessing our climbing objectives because these were very close to the Tajikistan border.  We had the required special permits, but our expedition coincided with increased political tensions between both countries.

We therefore relocated further east to the Kook Kiik Valley (about 40km west of Pik Lenin) and established a base camp (3,178m) at 39°24.978N, 72°26.152E. From here we summited Piks 3,884m (39°40.082N, 72°14.405E) and 3,993m (39°23.958N, 72°27.506E). From an advanced base at 4,056m (39°24.204N, 72°23.958E), we summited Piks 4,655m (39°23.872N, 72°23.031E) and 4,250m (39°24'21.60"N, 72°23'42.00"E).

We then drove north to the Turkistan range and the Alay Mountains, where we made our second base camp at 3,143m (39°37.755N, 72°15.628E). From here we climbed eight summits and tops with a height range of 3,999m to 4,500m. 

There were no signs of previous ascents on 11 of our 12 summits, and we believe these had not been climbed before. There was a trigonometry point on the summit of Pik 4,491m, but we are confident that our two routes to this summit had not been climbed before. 

Our team comprised the guides Adrian Nelhams, Max Cole, Tommaso Dusi, and Aleksey Potockiy, along with team members Mark Aitken, Stuart Bridger, Martin Brindley, Paul Casey, Mark Gardner, James McMeekin, Jason Sheldrake, Stephen Taylor, Harry Wilson, and David Woods. The eight peaks climbed in the Alay were:

Pik 4,485m, Hidden Big Peak (39°40.90839N, 72°14.04073E, August 31). From our second base camp, we ascended north on a recently bulldozed road to reach a high pass at 4,000m, roughly situated between Pik 4,491m and Pik 4,240m West. From there we continued north to reach the start of the long, rocky east ridge. This provided entertaining scrambling and climbing (5.4), with many towers and pinnacles all the way to the summit (PD+).

Pik 4,491m, Surveyor’s Peak (39°39.5642N, 72°14.1294E, August 31). We descended Pik 4,485m by its rocky east ridge for about 300m until it was possible to get onto the steep scree slopes. These were descended until a basin between both peaks was reached. Steep northerly slopes were then ascended to the summit (F). The peak was also ascended from its southwest flank (AD). This route required much more scrambling and rock climbing, including nine pitches at 5.5.

Pik 4,502m, Panorama Big Peak (39°39.6269N, 72°13.9892E, August 31). From Pik 4,491m we followed the northeast ridge, steep and exposed but with only moderate scrambling (PD).

Pik 4,240m West (39°39'26.48"N, 72°15'43.29"E, August 31). Same initial approach as Pik 4,485m to the pass. The route then went east, following mainly scree on the easy, broad, and gradual west ridge to the summit (F).

Pik 4,240m East (39°39.28.89N, 72°16.4.05E, August 31). This was easily reached by walking east along the broad scree ridge from Pik 4,240m West (F).

Pik 4,205m (39.6332N, 72.2641E, August  31). The broad north ridge of Pik 4,240m West was followed in a gradual descent, until a short easy scramble led up to the summit (F). 

Pik 4,141m, Rocky Spine Peak (39°36.9688N, 72°13.2215E, September 1). This summit is at the western end of a 5km steep and serrated rock ridge, and is the highest point of the ridge. From base camp, we walked 3km west and gradually ascended easy grass slopes. We reached the start of a distinctive rock ridge at the western end and climbed this at 5.4. There were several pinnacles and towers, some of which we bypassed. After reaching the summit ridge, we continued in a westerly direction, scrambling over several false summits until reaching the highest point (PD). On the return we followed the main ridge for about 3km, completing several enjoyable rock climbs (5.4) to minor tops.

Pik 3,999m (39.6137N, 72.2498E, September 1). This summit is at the eastern end of the 5km ridge, and is its second-highest top. It lies 3km east of Pik 4,141m. From base camp we approached from the south and a climbed through a considerable amount of steep, rocky terrain (four pitches of 5.9, two of which were on very good rock, the other two less so). Several false summits were climbed before the highest (AD+). Another party attempted the east ridge of this peak, which gave nine pitches of mainly slab climbing to 5.8. They reached 3,880m. This mountain has considerable rock climbing potential on solid rock at 5.8 or higher.

Additional information and photos can be found on the ISM website.

– Mark Aitken and Adrian Nelhams, U.K.