Pik Zaidler, North Couloir and West Ridge

Russia, Caucasus
Author: Anna Piunova. Climb Year: 2019. Publication Year: 2020.

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Alexander Zaidler (July 15, 1931 - August 8, 2018) was an honorary member of the UIAA Youth Commission, and in August 2019, a team of alpine veterans led by Alexander Turtukov named a previously unclimbed rocky summit of 3,772m in the Central Caucasus after Zaidler.
The peak is at 42°58.745'N, 43°31.612'E, on the long east ridge of Pik Shevchenko (4,161m). This area, approximately 10km north of the main divide, is rarely visited by climbers, the nearest settlement being 30km distant.

In August, Turtukov's team departed their high camp (around 3,250m) at 7 a.m. on August 4, reached the summit of Pik Zaidler at 11 a.m., and were back in camp by 5 p.m., having been delayed by rain during the descent. The team climbed the north couloir (30-45°) and west ridge, the latter scrambling at first then loose scree to the summit. The grade was 2A. The rock here is very poor, creating danger from stonefall.

– Information provided by Anna Piunova, mountain.ru, Russia



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