At the beginning of May, Pablo Rosagro and I visited the Pariacacca subrange in the Cordillera Central. We accessed the area from Canchayllo and installed our base camp at Lago Tembladera (4,480m).

On May 9 we ascended the southwest face of Tukumach’ay (a.k.a. Tucumachay, Tatatunsu, or Runshu), 5,357m on the IGN map. Our altimeters showed heights of 5,333m and 5,334m, respectively. The climb took approximately 12 hours round-trip, descending by the same route. We called our ascent Open Arms (300m, AD- 55º). The name is in honor of the rescue organization Proactiva Open Arms, which is dedicated to saving the lives of migrants who try to reach Europe across the Mediterranean and who very often die at sea. Our ascent was likely the fourth overall, with the three main ridges (west, south, east-southeast) climbed previously (http://montanasperuanas.org/N55_Runshu1.html).

On May 18 we climbed Tunshu Central. Historically, the height has been reported as 5,565m; however, our measurements of 5,679m by GPS and 5,645m by altimeter show it may be 100m taller. The height of 5,565m may correspond with the lower, southern summit climbed by Guy Fonck and Beto Pinto in 2014.

Our route begins on an aesthetic goulotte on the southwest face, to the right of the route Chinita (Pinto-Morales, 2011). We climbed four pitches on the steep section to gain the more moderately angled southeast ridge, on which four more pitches led to the summit. We call our route Nómadas del Kangia (500m, MD+ 90º A1). We mostly descended the same route, downclimbing the upper ridge and rappelling the face, a 24-hour round-trip climb. Ours is probably the fourth ascent of the mountain, after two ascents by Germans in 1967 and the 2011 climb.

–       Sergi Ricart Ibars, Spain