In August 2006, Giulia Di Fiore, Betta Preziosi, Fabiano Ventura, and I made a 13-day trek from Padam to Lamayuru. Marked on the poor-quality map we had at the time was an unnamed summit of over 6,000m. It was only a short detour from our planned itinerary, so we could afford to make an attempt.

From the Sirsir La, we had a clear view of our peak to the southwest. We left the main trekking route toward Hanupata and followed the valley southwest, camping to the southeast of the mountain at 4,860m. On August 27, Betta, Fabiano, and I set off to climb the south face, which from our vantage seemed the best route. We spent much time crossing a braided stream and then overcoming strenuous moraine slopes, until we reached the beginning of the south glacier at around 5,550m. We kept to the right edge, climbing snow slopes up to 50° until they eased and led to the ridge.

In late morning we reached a rocky top on the south-southwest shoulder of the mountain at 5,882m GPS (34° 4'41.60"N, 76°41'23.91"E). Ahead, a snow ridge led to the main summit. However, we were quickly covered in cloud and didn't feel it was wise to continue. The descent of our route was less tiring in the knowledge that we may have followed a previously unclimbed line. Only later did we understand that the main summit to our north was Chomotang.

– Andrea Bollati, Italy

Editor's note: Chomotang has three designated summits: the main 6,065 top (first ascent unknown), a summit to the northeast (Chomotang II), and one to the southwest (Chomotang III, more of a shoulder on the southwest ridge). The latter lies west across the glacier from the top reached by the Italians. Prior ascents of Chomotang III are unknown. In 2005, a Spanish team working from a base camp north of the range reported making a possible first ascent of Chomotang III via the northeast face. However, their photo actually shows Thorchuk I. It seems unlikely that the south-southwest top reached by the Italians had been climbed previously, and more certain that their route was new.