Store Trolltind, Fiva Route, First Ski Descent
Norway, More og Romsdal
On August 16, 1931, the legendary Norwegian mountaineer Arne Randers Heen, with his cousin Eirik Heen, became the first to climb any of the Trolltind summits directly from the Romsdalen, when the pair completed the 1,550m Fiva Route to Store Trolltind (1,788m), the second summit to the north of Trollryggen, on which lies the huge Troll Wall. The route, named after the farm in the valley below, follows initial grassy slabs to gain a large couloir. The climb then follows the couloir, or ridges to either side, to reach the watershed southeast ridge about 80m below the summit (Norwegian 4). There were several attempts to make the first winter ascent before it was successfully completed over four days in February 1972 by the Poles Andrzej Dworak, Wojciech Jedlinksi, Ryszard Kowalewski, and Tadeusz Piotrowski. On February 17, 2018, the Catalan Kilian Jornet, who has lived in Romsdal since 2016, made the first ski descent, after waiting two years for the right conditions.
Jornet climbed the route and skied down in a total of five hours and 40 minutes (about three hours for the ascent). From the summit he skied a couloir on the south flank, climbed down a bit, and then tacked to the southeast ridge, reaching the point where the Fiva Route drops dramatically down the northeast face. After a 40m rappel into the route, the first 200m of skiing averaged 60°—Jornet said it was probably the steepest terrain he'd ever skied. This section ended with another 40m rappel. Then came a long narrow couloir (500m, 50–55°) that finished in an icefall, which he circumvented with a short climb to reach a ramp. The lower 900m were less steep (45°) and wider, with short steep sections and some blue ice. The total descent to the car was 1,688m.
– Lindsay Griffin
Romsdal Ultra-Marathon: In June 2018, Kilian Jornet completed a marathon tour of the Romsdal mountains. In 56 hours, with just one and a half hours of sleep, he traveled 168km with a vertical gain of 22,000m along a convoluted ridge line south of the Romsdalfjord, starting at Voll and ending at Isfjorden. Jornet started with a 3.5kg pack, including food. Portions of the ridge involved technical climbing and descents; he carried an ultralight ice axe, and a light harness and 5mm Dyneema rope for rappels.