I first saw the east side of Seven Gables (13,080’) several years ago while traveling through the area with my wife. Subsequent research revealed a confusing climbing history that seemed to be only focused on neighboring Seven Gables North (Peak 12,640’). It surprised me that the broad buttress that rises to the higher summit hadn’t been climbed, as it’s clearly visible from a number of surrounding peaks, and the Sierra High Route passes nearby. 

In early September, Andy Stephen and I were climbing in the area, and I proposed adding a day to our trip to explore the east side of Seven Gables. He agreed, despite the fact that I wouldn’t reveal the name of the peak until we crossed Granite Bear Pass and the face was in view. The next morning we crossed the East Fork of Bear Creek just after dawn and followed easy slabs, talus, and snow to the base of the east buttress. The feature appears wide enough to accommodate more than one route. 

We started just left of a broad weakness in the center. Four pitches of fun climbing on good granite led to an area of sandy ledges just left of the ridge crest. Above this, mellow climbing interspersed with short 5.9 crack cruxes led back to and along the crest and to a small, chossy notch between a gendarme on the left and the main ridge on the right. We tried to stay right on top of the ridge, investigating several lower quality or poorly protected avenues, but eventually ended up descending, traversing, and re-ascending low-5th-class terrain in a couple of short pitches on the left side. A fun pair of pitches then took us to the top (1,000’, III 5.9).

– Ian McEleney