Toba Inlet, South Faces of Klite Peak and Klite E1
Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains
In July, two climbers sailed from Washington state to the Toba Inlet, about 100 miles northwest of Vancouver. They made their way to the head of the Tahumming River and hiked a little less than four miles of logging roads before reaching a sign that read “Klahoose First Nation NO ENTRY.” They disregarded the sign and hurried along to the Klite River drainage, which they ascended for 12 to 13 miles over two days until they reached a cirque of big granite walls. Over the next few days, they climbed two routes: the Southwest Cleft on the south face of Klite E1 (900m, 5.10 R) and the Southeast Ridge on the south face of Klite Peak (1,000m, 5.10+).
The first recorded ascents of Klite Peak and Klite E1 were made by John Baldwin and John Clarke during a 1986 ski traverse of the peaks surrounding the headwaters of the Tahumming River.
The AAJ does not support illegal trespass on tribal (or any) land. In the past, the Klahoose have granted permission to climb in their territory to some climbers who formally requested it. To learn more, visit www.klahoose.org.
– Chris Kalman, USA