Bautaen, Origo Nights
Norway, Spitzbergen

The fjord of Hornsund lies in southern Spitzbergen (Svalbard), and on the south coast of its inner waters lies the small peak called Bautaen (76.97086°N, 16.38613°E). This is a remote summit, and I am not aware of any routes being climbed there. I climbed the east face on June 3, during a long night snatched between days of work and skiing. My route began more or less from the sea. After a short ski ascent, I walked to the base of the steep rock wall, which I rope soloed in six pitches. The route followed cracks and corners of surprisingly good rock (gneiss): Origo Nights (7a). Protection was mostly good except on the second to last pitch, which was wide. Camalots number 5 and 6 would have been useful. I rappelled the route from single-point anchors.
– Krister Jonsson, Sweden