Kugelhorn, North Face, Vind för Våg

Norway, Nordland
Author: Information from Krister Jonsson. Climb Year: 2019. Publication Year: 2020.

The Kugelhorn (68.25592°N, 16.47003°E) in the Efjorden region is perhaps best known for its classic east ridge (Ostkammen, Norwegian 5-/5). The north face is steep and extensive, and to date there have been only a few routes: the North Slope (5 pitches, VI-, 2007), which slants up left to join the east ridge; Solskensdiederet (5 pitches, 7, 2007); Torskfiskaren (6 pitches, 7-, 1980); and Ogat (6 pitches, A2, 1981). In 2019 two new routes were added.

Krister Jonsson , who made the first ascent of Solskensdiederet, returned on August 26 to climb Vind för Våg (six pitches, 7+), starting to the left of his previous route. The line was climbed roped solo; it begins 30m to the left of an obvious left-slanting corner. A 40m pitch of 6+ leads to 30m of poorly protected climbing (7-). A short vertical corner and cracks with a few fixed pegs (35m, 6+) leads to a 40m crux pitch with delicate moves on slabs (7/7+) to gain a diedre. This corner system is followed for two pitches (35m, 7; 50m, 6+) to the top. The climb requires a normal rack of trad gear.

Also in August, and farther right (between Torskfiskaren and Ogat), Stian Bruvoll and Philip Curry (Norway) climbed the nine-pitch Nordwestpassasjen (7-, with sections of hard, bold climbing).

Information from Krister Jonsson, Sweden



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