Cerro Surapatilla, West Ridge Ascent, Northeast Ridge Descent

Bolivia, Cordillera Real
Author: Alexander von Ungern. Climb Year: 2019. Publication Year: 2020.

After setting up camp at 4,700m in the valley used to approach the west side of Chachacomani, the following day (October 15) Chris Knight and I left at dawn to climb the western ridge of Cerro Surapatilla (as defined by IGM map 5945-IV, 16°1'49.73"S, 68°22'14.23"W).

After hiking up 300m, we roped and began climbing. Starting on the western aspect of the first satellite summit, we were hidden in shade, which made for some humid and cold cracks. Once we were on the northwestern aspect of the ridge, the sun had dried out the fine granite and we enjoyed excellent ridge climbing. At the col between the first summit and the rest of the ridge, we found a short overhanging section, probably 6a and the crux of the climb. We then continued along the west ridge to the main summit, which my GPS recorded as 5,472m. From here we scrambled down the northeast ridge toward the col at its foot and then hiked back to camp, regaining it after a round trip of 9 hours 45 minutes.

I used a 40m rope and carried a set of nuts and four Tricams. We are pretty sure we were the first persons to follow this ridge, due to conspicuous small rocks and debris lying in obvious places along the ridge.

– Alexander von Ungern, Andean Ascents, Bolivia



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