From early August until the end of September 2017, a Japanese expedition led by Tetsuji Otsue visited West Nepal. Their original aim was Aichyn (6,055m, first climbed by another Japanese expedition in 2015), but after seeing that the peaks were dry and the south face of Changwatang, visible on the approach, held no snow, they changed their objective and headed south to Nying Himal (6,140m) at the head of the Nying Glacier. Base camp was on the moraine at 30°13'04"N, 81°51'32"E. From here they tried to climb the west ridge of Nying Himal, but the rock was bad and the ice conditions dangerous. Instead they turned to Lore Peak, so named on French guide Paulo Grobel’s Limi map. [This mountain has no name or spot height on the HMG-Finn map. It lies immediately north of the Lore La, opposite (northeast) of Nyalu Lek, and immediately southwest of unnamed Peak 6,020m.]

On September 5, from a high camp at 5,350m, beside a small pond at 30°10'29"N, 81°52'29"E, Otsue, Nakagawa Kazumichi, Akio Kurita, Yasushi Maeda, Motoda Sadayuki, Kimio Tominaga, and Miyuki Yamamoto reached the summit of Lore Peak via the north flank of the northwest spur and the west ridge. Four climbing Sherpas (names not reported) assisted the team. There was much loose rock, and about 10m of climbing on the “hanging wall” above the col to gain the west ridge was grade III. There was no snow on the south side of the summit ridge. The team recorded a summit altitude of 6,080m. They returned to camp after a round trip of 13 hours.

– Information supplied by Hiro Hagiwara, Editor, Rock and Snow, Japan