Two Southern Alberta Alpine Club of Canada members climbed the snow gully route on Sofa Mountain’s east face on March 13. They arrived at the summit at 3:47 p.m. and rested there, taking advantage of the warm, stable weather before descending.

At 4 p.m. they started to descend the summit ridge with the intention of traveling the normal descent route, the northeast shoulder to the summer trail. Upon leaving the summit ridge, they began scrambling down the upper cliff band on the north face. Once down, both members descended the fall line, where they began to veer off course from the normal descent route.

The two scrambled down 175 meters before reaching the first of a series of ledges on the lower cliff band. At this point they decided to follow the upper ledge west, thinking it would lead them to an easier passage to the basin below. After 150 meters they reached a steep chimney feature that was flowing with meltwater from the snowy slopes above. They decided to rappel to the lower ledge to circumvent the chimney and the water-filled channel, then continued scrambling down several ledges before reaching another dead end, approximately 20 meters above talus slopes.

With the end of their descent in sight, and with low energy levels after a long, strenuous day, team dynamics started to deteriorate as the crew split up to investigate different options. The trip leader remained on the ledge to seek a suitable rappel anchor while his partner looked for a downclimb. Eventually the partner found a steep ramp that appeared to lead to lower ledges. She shouted to inform the trip leader about her plan and began scrambling down before confirming if the leader had heard her. Suddenly she heard a loud scream from the leader, who had begun rappelling. She saw the leader fall about 10 meters from the upper ledge, land on the lower ledge, then roll off and fall another six meters to the talus; he then cartwheeled 70 or 80 meters down that steep slope. The partner climbed down to the leader, who at first appeared to be unresponsive and not breathing. Shortly after she reached him, he regained consciousness. At this point she called 911 using her cell phone.

A rescue team was deployed at 6:55 p.m., ten minutes after the accident occurred. At approximately 8:30 p.m., a medical helicopter arrived on scene, followed shortly thereafter by a rescue helicopter. Parks Canada safety technicians were dropped off by the rescue helicopter at the bottom of the basin and they hiked up to the climbers. After first aid, the patient was immobilized in a boost bag and slung down to the air ambulance waiting in the basin. The leader sustained four fractured vertebrae, other fractures, and multiple lacerations and contusions to his head and legs. He was expected to make a full recovery.

ANALYSIS

The climber had no recollection of the fall or the events leading up to the accident, so the exact cause of the accident will remain uncertain. There was no damage to the rope or cordelette (anchor), which came down with the leader, and all knots remained tight and properly dressed. It is assumed that the subject slung the cordelette around a boulder or piece of bedrock, and that the cordelette rolled off the anchor or the anchor rock shifted or became dislodged. The leader believes he might have slipped or stumbled as he started his rappel, which may have added force to the anchor.

The leader’s fall easily could have been fatal. He was wearing a climbing helmet and a backpack full of gear, which protected his head, neck, and spine on impact. The helmet sustained significant damage on the back side, where the subject’s head impacted the rock.

The accident occurred late in the day, and the situation easily could have led to an overnight wait for help. Fortunately, the group was in an area with cell service, which resulted in an immediate response from rescue services in Waterton and the surrounding area. The subject’s climbing partner was instrumental in the rescue. Her quick thinking and first aid kept the subject stabilized until rescue crews arrived on scene. (Sources: Parks Canada and Alpine Club of Canada blog.)