American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Khushrui Sar and Peak 6,099m, Attempts

Pakistan, Karakoram, Virjerab Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Bas Visscher
  • Climb Year: 2016
  • Publication Year: 2020

Bas Visscher and friends from the Netherlands visited the Virjerab Glacier in August 2016, and though warm weather thwarted their attempted climbs, they came away with photos of some impressive unclimbed objectives in this area (see the photos below).

The Dutch had a permit to attempt Yawash Sar (6,258m) in the Ghujerab mountains, but on arrival in Pakistan they learned the army had closed this region indefinitely in connection with arms smuggling.

It was far too warm in the Virjerab: It rained at night at 5,000m, and there were frequent avalanches. The climbers attempted Khushrui Sar (5,900m), climbed by Poles in 2013 (AAJ 2014), and Peak 6,099m, which lies in the southeast corner of the Kut Glacier, a little to the east of Khushrui Sar. Bad weather ended both attempts. Peaks in this area are likely to be better attempted in colder conditions, perhaps April-May or September-October.

Information provided by Bas Visscher, Netherlands

Pakistan expedition 2016 from Bas vd Smeede on Vimeo.

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Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption