Gasherbrum II, Southwest Face

Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2018. Publication Year: 2019.

On July 16, Felix Berg (German) and Adam Bielecki (Poland) climbed a partial new route on Gasherbrum II (8,034m). The pair followed the normal route up the southwest ridge to about7,300m, the point where it begins to veer right and traverse below the southeast face of the mountain. Here they moved left along a traverse leading toward the Gasherbrum III–II col. Above this lies the southwest face. The right-hand ridge (southwest spur) was climbed directly to the summitin 1995 by Carlos Carsolio (Mexico), and the left-hand ridge (west spur) was possibly climbed in 1990 by Georg Rudiger Lang, a German climber who was part of a 12-member international expedition. (It is not clear whether Lang climbed this line or the northwest face, a mixed snow and rock wall first ascended in 1975 by Polish climbers.) Berg and Bielecki climbed the middle of the southwest face, finishing toward the west spur and encountering delicate climbing over fragile rock slabs. The two were roped but unable to find much in the way of meaningful belays.

This was the only ascent of Gasherbrum II during the season, and no fixed ropes had beenplaced on the upper mountain. The pair crossed over the summit and descended the normal route.

– Lindsay Griffin, with information from Felix Berg, Germany