San Joaquin River Gorge, Confluence Dome, New Routes

California, Western Sierra
Author: Brandon Thau. Climb Year: 2018. Publication Year: 2019.

In September, Cristina Engel, Neal Harder, and I established the first known technical routes on Confluence Dome (37.445315, -119.242106), located at the confluence of the south and main forks of the San Joaquin River, downstream from Balloon Dome on the west side of the Sierra.

Confluence of Dreams (7 pitches, 5.10) is on the northwest corner of the formation and starts a few meters from the river's edge. Via a series of cracks and dikes, the route attains a prominent 300' electric-yellow dihedral and follows it to the summit.

The following day, Neal and I returned to establish the King Line (9 pitches, 5.10+). The climb starts where the foot of the dome enters the water and follows sections of perfect hand cracks and dikes directly above the river. Initially, the fifth pitch was aided at A0, but Neal and I returned in October to climb a free variation at 5.10+.

– Brandon Thau



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