Baintha Brakk West I, South Face, Attempt; Siayh Kangri Ho Brakk, North Face

Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh
Author: Information from Damian Göldi. Climb Year: 2018. Publication Year: 2019.

Damian Göldi and Marcel Jaun (Switzerland) attempted unclimbed Baintha Brakk West I (a.k.a. Ogre IV, 6,660m) via the south face. They acclimatized with an ascent of 5,330m Uzan Brakk VI, and then, in a short weather window, they climbed the lower south face of Baintha Brakk West I to a notch at 5,800m, where Jaun became ill with altitude sickness. After spending the rest of the day and following night waiting for freezing conditions, they descended safely to base camp. They noted that the hanging glacier up and a little left of their high point avalanched every hour.

On their way out they deviated into the region of the Sokha Lumba Glacier, on the west side of the Biafo Glacier, due south of Baintha, and climbed a peak of around 5,935m via its glaciated north face. They named this Siayh Kangri Ho Brakk. It's not known whether this peak had been climbed previously.

– Information from Damian Göldi, Switzerland



Media Gallery