Fall on Ice – Failure to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment

Oregon, Mt. Hood
Author: Portland Mountain Rescue. Climb Year: 2017. Publication Year: 2018.

At 10:40 a.m. on May 7, John Jenkins (32) was ascending the South Side (Hogsback) route on Mt. Hood when he slipped on ice above the bergschrund and was unable to self-arrest. He was unroped at the time and fell approximately 600 feet into the Devil’s Kitchen area, sustaining multiple serious injuries.

A number of climbers, including an emergency room physician and an EMT, assisted in his care. A 911 cell phone call activated rescue resources, and a Portland Mountain Rescue team arrived on scene within an hour. An Oregon Army National Guard Blackhawk helicopter performed a hoist evacuation 4.5 hours after the fall, but Jenkins’ medical condition deteriorated rapidly, and he succumbed to his injuries prior to reaching Legacy Emanuel Medical Center.

ANALYSIS

The cause of the fall is unknown. The climber’s inability to self-arrest the fall may be attributed to inadequate equipment. Jenkins was using ski poles with self-arrest grips at the time of the fall. His ice axe was strapped on his backpack. During icy conditions, a self-arrest ski pole is no substitute for an axe. Roped climbing and anchored belays should also be considered in these conditions. (Source: Portland Mountain Rescue.)