Nevado Chicón, Southwest Face of South Peak
Peru, Cordillera Urubamba
On June 3, Andres Putallaz (Argentina) and I left Urubamba at noon and traveled up the Chicón Valley. Climbing up the east side of the valley brought us to the glacier below the south peak of Nevado Chicón (5,526m), where we set a bivouac at 7 p.m. [The north-south ridgeline of Chicón spans about 2 km. The southern summit is approximately 5,380m.) At 3 a.m. we crossed the glacier, passing some crevasses, and started up the southwest wall. After about four rope lengths of climbing we arrived at the ridge leading to the south summit. We descended the same route, arriving back at the bivy at 4 p.m. and continuing to Urubamba that evening.
– Jorge "Coqui" Galvez, Peru