American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Ruth Gorge, New Rock Routes

Alaska, Alaska Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Freddie Wilkinson
  • Climb Year: 2017
  • Publication Year: 2018

Despite being accompanied to the Ruth Gorge by the all-star team of Alex Honnold and Renan Ozturk, conditions and motivations didn’t align for a big adventure. Instead, we made two minor first ascents on the sunny side of the gorge.

On June 17, Alex and I climbed a new line on the buttress immediately north of the Stump. This route began with a 5.11 fist crack through a roof, followed by an impressive 400’ 5.10 offwidth (thanks Alex!) before relenting to simul-climbable terrain. We called it the Alaskan Monster (1,000’, 5.11).

On June 20, Renan, Alex, and I climbed a probable new line on the southeastern aspect of the Stump. From below the start of Goldfinger, we hiked east toward the Eye Tooth for 15 or 20 minutes to reach the start of our route. It had a few OK pitches, but the rock paled in comparison to the nearby Goldfinger (McNamara-Puryear, 2004). We named this one the Stump Rider (1,500’, 5.11).

– Freddie Wilkinson

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