Belayer Pulled Into Wall – No Ground Anchor

British Columbia, Vancouver Island, Nanaimo
Author: The Editors. Climb Year: 2017. Publication Year: 2018.

On October 8, a 24-year-old woman caught her climbing partner’s fall at the Lower Deck of the Sunnyside climbing area. (Whether the climber was leading or top-roping was not clear from reports.) The belayer was pulled forward, slamming into rock and seriously injuring her knee. Rescuers hauled her to the top of the cliff in a litter and transported her to the hospital. (Source: Times Colonist newspaper, Victoria, BC.)

ANALYSIS

Climbers should be mindful of several issues when belaying heavier leaders from  the ground. If the climber weighs substantially more than the belayer (50 percent or greater weight difference is a good guideline), the belayer should be appropriately anchored; however, be aware of rockfall danger to the belayer and the ability to communicate effectively with the climber. The belayer should be positioned as directly under the leader as the terrain and overhead hazards allow. Avoid belaying from perches on boulders, talus, or hillsides where the sudden force of a fall may cause the belayer to swing or be dragged across the ground. (Source: The Editors.)