American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Peak 6,113m, East-Northeast Spur, Attempt

India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahaul

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin
  • Climb Year: 2017
  • Publication Year: 2018

A nine-member expedition led by Rudra Prasad Halder, with a three-man Sherpa support team, planned to attempt an unnamed and unclimbed peak of 6,113m (dubbed Goutam Parbat, 32°34'43"N, 76°42'43"E) in the Ghar Nala, south of Thirot in the Chandrabhaga Valley. Team members had visited this area in 2012. Base camp was established at 4,400m, northeast of the mountain.

The team first climbed the glacier bay to the north of a long spur that descends east-northeast from the north ridge of Peak 6,113m, but at 5,350m decided it would be too difficult to reach the summit directly from this point. They then tried the spur to the south, which falls more or less east from the summit. About halfway up they met difficult rock and ice, and decided to abandon any attempt from this direction.

A decision was made to return to the initial spur and attempt to reach the point where the spur meets the north ridge. On September 7 the team left high camp in the glacier bay north of the spur and fixed 1,600m of rope up the north-northeast spur, eventually reaching Point 5,789m on the north ridge. The team’s experience makes them feel that Peak 6,113m is too difficult from the east, but a more reasonable route might be possible from the Chobia Valley to the west.

– Lindsay Griffin, with information from Rudra Prasad Halder, India, and Nandini Purandare, Himalayan Journal, Editor, India

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