AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Charlotte Dome, Dance of Dragons

After making possibly the second ascent of Beast and Beauty (IV 5.11a) with Chaz Langelier, car-to-car, I returned to Charlotte Dome in July 2017 with Jeremy Ross after I had noticed an intriguing set of parallel features to the left. Since the rock on Charlotte Dome is of exceptional quality everywhere the eye can see, the route we climbed turned out to be as good as all of the previous routes on this gorgeous alpine dome—stellar. Dance of Dragons (IV 5.11a) is close to 2,000’ long with several pitches of varied 5.10 and a crux pitch of 5.11a. The route mostly protects with natural gear in intermittent cracks, but also required several bolts to protect some of the difficult face climbing. 

– Vitaliy Musiyenko