American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Moro Rock, Meteora

California, Sequoia National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Vitaliy Musiyenko
  • Climb Year: 2017
  • Publication Year: 2018

In 2016 Daniel Jeffcoach and I started a new independent line on the middle of the steep west face of Moro Rock. Due to sustained difficult climbing and the need to place several bolts we ran out of time and could not finish the route in a day. We climbed the upper portion of the wall from the midway ledge the following day but could not free climb several pitches of the route. Daniel was not as interested in working on the free ascent so I returned a few times on my own, and in the spring of 2017 Brian Prince and I made a completely free ascent of Meteora (1,200’, 8 pitches, IV 5.11c/d). The route has great climbing on exceptional rock, and most of the pitches are nearly 60 meters. It starts up a wild pitch of steep face and crack climbing, traverses right to a huge ledge via a 5.10a pitch and then climbs a thin layback crack with a wild dynamic move (5.11c/d) to the juggy lip of a big roof. From there the route traverses horizontally right to the belay of Modern Guilt and climbs half a pitch of that route (5.11a/b) before threading the giant arch to the left and climbing another three pitches of moderate runout face climbing with intermediate cracks and a few moves of 5.10a. If runout face climbing is not desired one could climb a big arching left facing corner to the right of where the last pitches traverse left and up.

– Vitaliy Musiyenko 

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