In April, Jonathan Schaffer and I climbed a new ground-up route on the north face of Mt. Kinesava. Slam Panther! (400m, 5.11) is a Zion adventure true to the area. The route takes an obvious line in the middle-right of the cliff. [Editor’s note: At least one other route has been completed by an unknown party on the north face of Kinesava, to the left of Slam Panther! Fasoldt has also attempted a prominent red pillar to the right, but was shut down by blank sections that would require a bolt ladder.]

To approach, hike out the Chinle Trail for about an hour until you reach a wide wash running perpendicular to the trail. Turn right up this wash—you are now officially in cougar country. Walk up the wash for a whisker width longer than five minutes, until you see a narrower wash on your right. Rest assured that the panthers notice your every step as you continue up this wash for about 35 minutes.

The drainage narrows as Kinesava's north face gets closer. After the 100th bend in the wash, you'll notice a smaller cliff band well below the main wall. When you find yourself below a break in this small cliff band, the trail leaves the wash; it's possible a cairn constructed of white rocks still marks the turn. A crude trail switchbacks up and across some drainage networks to avoid the small cliffs. Once at the wall, head left for about 100m until you're below a big, black left-facing corner. The first pitch, at 5.11, is likely the crux, featuring stemming and laybacking up the corner. If cleaned, it would go with less effort.

From the ledge atop the first pitch, walk right for 30m to an obvious feature of cracks and corners. Some more shuttling up high leads to a run-out white face, which leads eventually to the top. We placed two protection bolts and left no fixed anchors. The easiest way down follows the normal scrambling descent down the east face (as for Cowboy Ridge).

– Pete Fasoldt