American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Emily Peak, South Face, La Vengeance de Robîne

Pakistan, Karakaram, Hispar Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Symon Welfringer
  • Climb Year: 2017
  • Publication Year: 2018

In May and June, a friend and I traveled to Pakistan to attempt virgin Pumari Chhish East (6,850m), above the YutmaruGlacier. During acclimatization my friend fell sick, so I decided to attempt an easier peak alone. Leaving base camp on the north side of the Hispar Glacier on June 8, I climbed around 1,000m of easy terrain (mostly snow slopes up to 50°) and camped for the night at approximately 5,000m, below the main south face of a peak I thought at the time was unclimbed. The next day I climbed to the summit and back in 10 hours. The hardest part was the first 400m, a gully with sections of AI4 and M4. I self-belayed three pitches. Above, snow slopes up to 50° and moderate mixed climbing led to the top, where my alitmeter read around 6,000m, and from there I descended easy snow slopes well to the left of my route. I named the route La Vengeance de Robîne (1,000m from high camp, AI4 M4).

Symon Welfringer, France

Editor's note: This is the mountain soloed in 2008 by Rufus Duits (U.K.) and named Emily Peak (36.120420°N, 75.287249°E Google Earth, AAJ 2009). Duits soloed the southwest face (AD- 60°). The Jerzy Wala (Polish) map gives a summit elevation of 5,684m, and the Russian map shows 5,687m. Welfringer’s altimeter watch suggested a summit elevation of 5,950–6,050m. After analyzing Duit’s photos of surrounding mountains from the summit, and the summit taken from his high point during an attempt on Hispar Sar, it appears the peak is somewhat higher than the map elevations—perhaps around 5,850m, though not 6,000m.

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