Nevado Tunsho Sur, Southeast Face (Not To Summit)

Peru, Cordillera Central
Author: Sergio Ramírez Carrascal. Climb Year: 2018. Publication Year: 2018.

In July, Peruvian IFMGA guide Victor Rímac traveled with Greg Meyering and Susie Young (both USA) to Reserva Paisajística Nor Yauyos Cocha, located in Peru’s Cordillera Central, east of Lima.

On July 10, after traveling through the Junín region of Huancayo, they reached the village of Pachacayo and hiked to Lago Azulcocha (4,400m), where they camped for five days to acclimatize. From the lake they made their way to the base of their objective, Nevado Tunsho Sur (5,420m), and camped at 4,600m for two additional days.

[Editor’s note: Nevado Tunsho (11°53'46.37"S, 75°59'17.35"W, also spelled Tunshu) has three summits oriented in a southwest-northeast chain. The main summit is 5,730m, the central summit is 5,565m, and the southern summit is 5,420m. The main and central summits were first reached by a German expedition (AAJ 1968). To add further precision to reports about Tunsho in AAJ 2012 and 2015: The central summit was climbed via its south-southwest face in 2011 by Rolando Morales and Beto Pinto (both from Peru), and the south summit was first reached by a route up its west-southwest face in 2014 by Guy Fonck (Belgium) and Beto Pinto.]

On July 17, the three climbers started their ascent at 5 a.m., following a left-angling snow ramp on the southeast face.For the first 200m, they ascended snow slopes of 40–50°. After this, they followed mixed terrain up to 70° to reach a shoulder along the peak’s south ridge, approximately 100m below the summit and at least 300m away horizontally. From this high point, they descended the west-southwest face by rappels. Their route is (400m, D+ 70°).

Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru, with information from Victor Rímac



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