American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection

Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Anthill Direct

  • Accident Reports
  • Author: The Editors
  • Accident Year: 2016
  • Publication Year: 2017

A 24-year-old climber fell at least 70 feet to the ground at Redgarden Wall on April 9, sustaining significant injuries. The 5.8 variation he was attempting has a PG-13 hazard rating. A complete report was not available, but witnesses said the fall pulled out two of Black Diamond’s smallest cams (the 0.1 and 0.2 Camalot X4, designed for aid climbing), the smaller of which was destroyed by the forces. A bolt that the climber had clipped low on the pitch may have slowed his fall somewhat before he impacted the ground. He was wearing a helmet and was expected to make a good recovery.

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