American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Dzhangi-tau, Southwest Face, Kartvelishvili Route with Variant

Georgia, Caucasus

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Archil Badriashvili
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2017

From August 19–22, 2015, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Tsibadze, and I climbed the Kartvelishvili Route on the southwest face of Dzhangi-tau (a.k.a. Jangi-tau or Janga, 5,058m, the second-highest peak in the Georgian Caucasus), creating a new variant of at least 150m, with sections of ice to 90°. First climbed in 1965, the Kartvelishvili Route had only been repeated once, in 1978.

Starting from the town of Mestia, we camped on the glacier at 2,750m, then twice on the face, at 4,340m and 4,630m. From the summit, we traversed the crest of the Bezingi Wall to the east (over Jangi East) to 4,800m Sandro Pass, from which we descended an icefall to the south. The weather was awful throughout, probably the harshest we've experienced on a mountain ascent. The 2,300m route was Russian 5B, 5c AI5.

– Archil Badriashvili, Georgia

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