After some climbs in the popular Ulamertorssuaq region of the Tasermiut Fjord, including perhaps the second ascent of Grmoland (Grmovsek-Grmovsek, 2008) on Ketil Pyramid, Duncan Barrack and Wil Treasure (U.K.) set off to repeat the Swiss route Les Temps Sont Dur (15 pitches, 6c, 1998) on the 600m, north-facing wall of the formation known as Half Dome. The name Half Dome was probably first coined by the French party that climbed in this area in 1975. It has been likened to a much bigger version of Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows, California. Barrack and Treasure had only a hand-drawn topo, and on inspecting the face the previous night, they couldn’t identify the line or see the expected belay anchors. Instead, they decided to attempt a new line, working on the assumption that at least on this they couldn’t get off-route.

The pair set off as the sun hit the face on July 29. Starting 50m left of the Swiss route and continuing up a blunt rib, the initial terrain had excellent granite, with positive yet run-out climbing. Higher, flakes became less solid and gear placements hard won. Toward the top there was a frightening pitch on overlapping loose flakes, but it was short and the rock above improved. They joined the finishing pitches of the Swiss route and followed this to the summit. It was 10 p.m. and they had little option but to curl up on a rope bed and shiver out the night. The following day, seven hours of rappelling from the anchors of Les Temps Sont Dur took them back to the ground. They named the route the Bad Man from Bodie (E2 5b).

– Lindsay Griffin