American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Exploration of Rangtik, Shimling, and Denyai Valleys; Remalaye West, South Face

India, Zanskar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Matic Jost
  • Climb Year: 2016
  • Publication Year: 2017

From mid-July to the start of September, Anastasija Davidova and I explored the Rangtik, Shimling, and Denyai tokpos. The first two valleys are northwest of the Haptal, the last northwest of the Mulung.

We first spent 20 days in the Rangtik, where we acclimatized with an ascent of the south face of Remalaye (H5, 6,278m) as far as a prominent point on the west ridge, which we named Remalaye West (6,266 m, 33°28'50"N, 76°43'33"E). We then had a period of poor weather, during which we made attempts on Phobrang (5,800m) and H8 (6,193m), and repeated the 2008 Spanish route Rolling Stones (Pellissa-Ricart, 500m, D+ UIAA V+ 65° ice) on a peak they named Shawa Kangri. We measured the summit coordinates as 5,728m, 33°27'46N, 76°44'07"E.

With no improvement in the weather, we trekked up the Shimling Tokpo, crossed a 5,638m col to the Mulung Tokpo, descended to Zunkul Gompa, and then went up the Denyai Tokpo. We took no climbing gear but found many attractive peaks in this valley—it is possible that all of these remain unclimbed and unnamed.

In September the weather improved and we went back to the Rangtik, where we almost climbed H8 (6,193m). We climbed to a small col between the mountain and Peak 6,110m from the east, then moved onto the north flank and headed toward the summit. It got late, and as we had no bivouac gear, we decided to retreat from 6,100m. There are many great opportunities for alpine-style ascents at all grades in this area.

– Matic Jost, Slovenia

The author has compiled extensive expedition reports with many maps and photos:

Download the Shimling and Rangtik report.

Download the Denyai report.  

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Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption