Notch Peak, South Face, Airavata

Utah, House Range
Author: Kristoffer Wickstrom. Climb Year: 2016. Publication Year: 2017.



From November 28 to December 9, Karl Kvashay and I established the first route up the prominent south face of Notch Peak (9,654’), a limestone mountain much better known for its huge north wall. This was our second go at the line after a strong but failed attempt in the spring of 2015.

We spent two days on either end of the climbing hauling our kit to and from the wall. We accessed the route from the peak's south drainage until we reached an obvious gully that was used to breach a maze of many 3rd- and 4th- class steps. The headwall was climbed in nine pitches, totaling 1,755’ of technical climbing, with a total of 18 belay or protection bolts drilled by hand.

Airavata (VI 5.10R A4 PDW) was climbed ground-up, in full winter conditions, with temperatures regularly dropping into the negatives. [Editor’s note: PDW is a big-wall grading designation that originated in Zion National Park and stands for Pretty Damn Western. It denotes very serious climbing.] One snowstorm pinned us down for 36 hours in our portaledge. The route required careful navigation through many teetering and fractured features; all belays were thoughtfully placed to protect against leader-induced rockfall. A full wall rack with ample beaks was key to protecting both the free and aid sections, and a 70-meter rope was utilized to its full extent.

– Kristoffer Wickstrom



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