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Zowie, South Face, Magic in the Middle

Zowie is similar in shape and size to the classic RMNP spire the Petit Grepon. The only thing Zowie has lacked in comparison to the ultra-popular Petit has been a truly classic route up its south face. In June, Dede Humphrey and I climbed Magic in the Middle (700’, III 5.9) up the middle of the south face. Magic has seven pitches of consistent, high-quality climbing on good alpine granite, with big belay ledges, and leads to a spectacular tiny summit. With a straightforward approach and descent, this should become one of the more popular moderates in the Park.

– Ken Duncan