American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Zowie, South Face, Magic in the Middle

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Ken Duncan
  • Climb Year: 2016
  • Publication Year: 2017

Zowie is similar in shape and size to the classic RMNP spire the Petit Grepon. The only thing Zowie has lacked in comparison to the ultra-popular Petit has been a truly classic route up its south face. In June, Dede Humphrey and I climbed Magic in the Middle (700’, III 5.9) up the middle of the south face. Magic has seven pitches of consistent, high-quality climbing on good alpine granite, with big belay ledges, and leads to a spectacular tiny summit. With a straightforward approach and descent, this should become one of the more popular moderates in the Park.

– Ken Duncan

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