Dragontail Peak, Iceline Bling

Washington, Stuart Range
Author: Jeff Wright. Climb Year: 2016. Publication Year: 2017.

On April 3, Craig Pope, my wife Priti Wright, and I climbed a new ice route on the north face of Dragontail Peak, a direct line up the north buttress that we dubbed Iceline Bling (250m, WI5 M4). This is an alternate start to the classic Triple Couloirs (WI3 M3), depositing the climber at the top of the first couloir; it’s also a worthy line on its own, with quality ice. The route is visible from Colchuck Lake but may not form consistently each year.

Iceline Bling begins just left of the toe of Dragontail's north buttress, starting with a pitch of sustained WI4 trending diagonally right, followed by a pitch of more relaxed WI4, then a rope length of easy snow. This took us to the crux pitch (WI5 M4), which Craig led up a thinly iced slab to a short column. A final rope length of easy snow (climber’s left) leads to the top of the first couloir of Triple Couloirs. From here, one can continue up Triple Couloirs or downclimb to Colchuck Lake as we did.

– Jeff Wright



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