Morro Von Rosen, Qhapaq Ñan

Argentina, Northern Andes
Author: Marcelo Scanu. Climb Year: 2016. Publication Year: 2017.

In late April, Argentine climbers Matías Cruz and Facundo Juárez Zapiola visited Morro Von Rosen (5,450m), a peak of compact granite in the Chañi Group, located in far northern Argentina. They made their base camp at a hut on the slopes of Nevado de Chañi (5,930m). The two climbers first attempted a new route on Chañi, climbing a dihedral with moves up to 6a+; however, they gave up after the first 100m.

On April 24, in windy conditions, they climbed a steep spur on the southeast aspect of Morro Von Rosen, with the majority of the route following a prominent dihedral. Not including the fourth-class approach, their route was five pitches, with difficulties to 6c+. They called the route Qhapaq Ñan (300m, 6c+), which is the Quechan name for the Inca Road (the Incan alphabet was different, so phonetically, in Spanish, this can be stated as Qhapac, Qhapaj, Capac, Capaj, or Capaq); one of its branches reached Chañi, which is reported to have had a child sacrificed on its summit.

– Marcelo Scanu, Argentina



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