Karyolung, Southwest Pillar and Southeast Ridge; Numbur, Southeast Face, Attempt

Nepal, Rolwaling Himal
Author: Santi Padros. Climb Year: 2016. Publication Year: 2017.

In a fruitful trip of less than three weeks, our Catalan team of Oriol Baró, Roger Cararach, and I did two climbs above the Dudh Kund Glacier. After flying to Lukla in mid-October, we approached up the Sor Khola and established base camp at Dudh Kund Lake (4,630m). The head of the valley was surrounded by the big peaks of Numbur (6,958m), Khatang (6,790m), and Karyolung (6,530m), and the southerly orientation of this cirque was favourable for new ice and mixed lines. The weather was wonderfully stable but cold, with the morning temperature averaging around -14°C.

Less than a week after our arrival, we were already on our first route, the previously unclimbed southwest pillar of Karyolung, which rose close to base camp. We spent three days climbing what we christened Dudh Khunda Pillar (1,400m, ED 6a AI4 M4), reaching the summit on October 31. Our bivouacs were at 5,600m and 6,100m. From the top we descended the north ridge, loosing 700m in three hours before rappelling to the Dudh Kund Glacier and regaining base camp the same day. [Editor’s note: The rarely climbed Karyolung was first ascended in 1982 by Japanese, via the northeast face, also starting from Dudh Kund Lake.]

After one rest day we set off for the southeast face of Numbur. We made this approach in two days, partly to make sure we arrived at the base relatively fresh. At 4 a.m. on November 4, Oriol and I started up the 1,100m face from a camp at 5,800m, aiming to reach the summit in one day. Though the weather was clear, a morning wind initially made us uncertain. Fortunately, the wind disappeared at dawn, and by 2:30 p.m. we had reached a height of about 6,900m. At this point, about 80m below the summit, we were fighting with totally unconsolidated snow. We had climbed past the main technical difficulties on fantastic ice, but now were faced with snow slopes up to 70° that were impossible to protect. We decided that the risk was too great and descended from this point. To our high point, the route was 1,000m, ED AI5 M4. [Numbur was first climbed in 1963 by Japanese, via the southwest ridge, a route that has been repeated at least half a dozen times.]

While in the area, Roger and I also climbed to the 5,850m col between Karyolung and Khatang via a diagonal line of around 600m and UIAA IV+, descending directly in six very long rappels (November 2). On the 6th, Roger and Oriol climbed what we dubbed the Aiguille d’Amitges del Karyolung (ca 5,200m), a rock pillar one hour from the lake. They named the route Ranxera Nepali (4 pitches, 7a, plus 100m of easier climbing to the top). Khatang has had two ascents, both via the northeast ridge, and has serious potential for new lines from the south. But cold, fatigue, and a certain satisfaction in what we had achieved drove us to the comforts of civilization to continue dreaming of future projects.

Santi Padros, Spain, with additional information from Rodolphe Popier, Himalayan Database



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