Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection

Canada, British Columbia, Joffre Peak
Author: The Editors. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

On January 11, three climbers perished after falling nearly the full length of the Central Couloir on the north side of Joffre Peak, east of Pemberton. The couloir is best known as an extreme ski descent, but this trio was ascending the route as a snow and ice climb. They were climbing roped and had neared the top of the route when something caused one or more of them to fall, pulling all three into a fall of about 600 meters. When the climbers did not rendezvous with friends and family as planned, they began a search and discovered the fallen climbers at the foot of the peak that night. (Source: News reports.)

ANALYSIS

The climbers (ranging in age from late 20s to 30s) were experienced and well equipped. It is not possible to say exactly what caused them to fall, but investigators reported there was no avalanche debris at the base of the route. It appears most likely that one climber fell with either inadequate protection or anchor (or both) and pulled the others off. (Source: The Editors.)