On September 3, Peter Kettering, 61, was starting up what he believed was Revelations (5.9). In fact, he was mistakenly leading the harder climb Irreverence (5.10a). Just before clipping the first bolt, Kettering fell 12 to 15 feet to the ground. Kettering injured both ankles in the fall and was carried to an ambulance.

ANALYSIS

Smith Rock is known for high first bolts. The use of a spotter or bouldering pad before clipping the first bolt is recommended. Many climbers employ stick clips for routes with difficult or high first clips.

While climbing off-route or misreading the guidebook will happen, climbers should be aware of their limits and downclimb if they discover the route is more difficult than expected. (Source: Matt Crawford, Deschutes County Sheriff’s Office Search and Rescue.)