On June 17, Yosemite Search and Rescue responded to a 6 a.m. request for help from a solo climber on pitch 15 of Tangerine Trip (VI 5.7 A3/C3). He reported that he had lost partial use of both hands and that completing the climb was no longer viable. The climber had previously taken a full rest day, hoping this would resolve the problem, but the issue persisted and he made the decision that assistance was needed. Up to this point, he had been on the wall for seven days.

YOSAR mobilized at 7 a.m. Once in position at the top of the Trip, a spotter in El Cap Meadow assisted the team in establishing a line down to the climber’s position. A rescuer was lowered to the climber to help him secure his equipment in a haul bag and break down his portaledge. After the climber’s injuries were assessed and equipment secured, the climber and rescuer were raised to the top of El Cap. Rescuers descended with the climber, walking down to the top of the East Ledges. Due to the nature of the climber’s injuries, he was lowered down a couple of steep sections of the descent, and a series of assisted lowers was conducted down the standard East Ledges rappels.

ANALYSIS

Climbing El Cap solo is obviously far more difficult than climbing in a team. Running into issues alone can immediately halt your progress and leave you stranded. In this case, the injuries to the climber’s hands could have led to more serious injuries while trying to climb out or descending on his own. Careful consideration of contingency plans while solo climbing is always prudent, including carrying extra food and water for unplanned situations. (Source: NPS Ranger Brandon Latham.)