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Mukot Himal, First Official Ascent

Nepal, Dhaulagiri Himal-Mukot Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Rodolphe Popier, France and Tom Richardson, U.K.
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2016

Added to the permitted list in 2014, Mukot Himal (6,087m) is located in a remote and wild corner of Nepal, nestled into the flank of the rarely seen but phenomenal Dhaulagiri II. KE Adventure Travel organized three groups to attempt the peak during the autumn. 

In mid-October, Kami Sherpa, Mingma Dorje Sherpa, and Gelgin Sherpa equipped most of the 600m route to the top with fixed rope. On October 17, Mark Aitken, Sian Beaty, Alexander Duhault, and Mark Soares, from a Canadian-U.K. group led by Adrian Sommers, reached the summit. The Sherpa team and foreign climbers approached from the northwest to a col on the north ridge (45–50° below the col) and then followed the ridge (30–35°) to the summit, for an overall grade of PD+. The second team was led by Tom Richardson (U.K.). Pasang Sherpa, Dorji Sherpa, Richardson and his wife, Janet James, Jeremy and Helen Anson, Alan Johnson, Eric Larson (USA), and Karyn Maltby followed the same route and reached the summit in six hours from advanced base, benefiting from the ropes used by the previous team. Although these were the first “official” ascents, this peak was most likely first climbed in 1967. A little later a third group, another large Canadian-U.K. team led by Val Pitkethly, arrived at base camp in time to suffer 48 hours of continuous snowfall and were unable to attempt the mountain.

Information from Rodolphe Popier, France, and Tom Richardson, Alpine Club, U.K.

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