American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Dzanye II, South Face

Nepal, Janak Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Takanori Mashimo, Japan
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2016

We were a team of six students gathered from six different universities, celebrating the 110th anniversary of the Japanese Alpine Club, which supported our expedition. In 2013, I had been a member of the expedition that made the first ascent of Janak East (AAJ 2014), so in 2015 we decided to look for a nearby unclimbed peak and found Dzanye II (6,318m).

We approached via Lhonak and the Chijima (a.k.a. Tsisima) Glacier, placing our high camp at 5,700m on the northwest branch of the Chijima Glacier. From here we made our attempt. We fixed two ropes to get onto the glacier (removed at the end of the expedition), walked up the flat glacier, avoiding many small crevasses, then moved onto the west side to avoid icefalls. We fixed three more ropes (again removed after the climb) to reach the upper plateau at ca 6,100m, and then climbed directly up the south face of Dzanye II, belaying three pitches. We reached the narrow summit ridge and followed it to the top. All six of us arrived at the summit on October 4. The team was Shinnosuke Ashikari, Kenta Kimura, Shun Kitsui, Kotaro Miyazu (climbing leader), Takehiro Nozawa, and me (expedition leader).

Takanori Mashimo, Japan, Supplied By Hiroshi Hagiwara, Japan

Editor's note: There has been confusion surrounding the names of some of these border peaks, but Dzanye I, as climbed in 1949 by the Swiss Dittert, Lohner, Partgaetzi-Almer, Sutter, and Wyss-Dunant, is the peak marked 6,581m on the HMG-Finn map. Dzanye II, climbed by the Japanese, is unmarked but registered as 6,318m in the list of more than 100 new peaks brought onto Nepal’s permitted list in 2014. This list quotes coordinates of 27°54'08"N, 88°02'28"E, which are very close to that of the summit climbed by the Japanese, midway along the frontier ridge between Lashar I (6,842m) and Dzanye I.

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