American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Ama Dablam, Lagunak Ridge, First Alpine-Style Ascent

Nepal, Mahalangur Himal-Khumbu Section

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Rodolphe Popier, The Himalayan Database, France
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2016

Climbing as two pairs—Fanny Schmutz and Damien Tomasi, and Fleur Fouque and Sébastien Rougegré—four French guides from the Chamonix Valley made the first alpinestyle ascent (fifth overall) of the Lagunak Ridge (south ridge) of Ama Dablam (6,814m). This ridge, first climbed in 1985 by Hooman Aprin, Randy Harrington (USA), and Martin Zabaleta (Spain), finishes up the southwest ridge (normal route). The final crest, forming the left edge of the east face, remains unclimbed.

The four French left advanced base at 5,600m at 2 a.m. on October 22 and bivouacked at 6,000m and then again at 6,600m (on the normal route), before reaching the summit on the 25th at 10:20 a.m. The first day’s leading was done by the women, the second day by the men. The four descended the normal route on the 25th. They found the route a little harder than the Brown-Patey on the Pic Sans Nom in the Mont Blanc Range, and they graded the 1,200m ascent TD+ F5 AI5 M4 90°.

Rodolphe Popier, France

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