Thalay Sagar, Northwest Ridge, Partial New Route
India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri
Author: Lindsay Griffin.
Climb Year: 2015.
Publication Year: 2016.
In August and September, a team comprising Felix Criado, Adrian Legarra, Txus Lizarraga, Ekaitz Maiz, and Alex Txikon (all Spain), together with Daniele Nardi (Italy), climbed a new line up a pillar on the northwest ridge of Thalay Sagar (6,904m), ending their ascent with a 50m rappel to join the normal route (west ridge), ca 500m below the summit. They descended from here. The northwest ridge was climbed to the summit in 2004 by a Swiss quartet (AAJ 2005). The Spanish-Italian team followed the Swiss route for 700m and then broke right onto the pillar. They climbed this in 11 pitches (A3 WI4+ M5/6) to their exit onto the west ridge.
Lindsay Griffin with information from Daniele Nardi, Italy
Media Gallery
Txus Lizarraga on the big roof (A2+) four pitches above Camp 2 at 6,040m.
Daniele Nardi
Txus Lizarraga and Ekaitz Maiz climbing new ground on the rock pillar.
Daniele Nardi
(1) The pillar climbed by the 2004 Swiss route (Harvest Moon). (2) The upper part of the pillar climbed by the Spanish-Italian team in 2015 to join the west ridge, which comes up the right skyline.
Daniele Nardi
The Spanish-Italian line on the right side of the north face of Thalay Sagar, terminating on the normal route ca 500m below the summit.
Daniele Nardi
Looking down the pillar on Thalay Sagar.
Daniele Nardi