Gompe Tokpo Glacier, T18 (Peak 6,184m), West Ridge

India, Zanskar
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

Following Kimikazu Sakamoto’s exploration of the Gompe Tokpo peaks in 2012, the Kolkata section of the Himalayan Club organized a trip to climb a virgin peak there in July 2014. With the help of four Sherpas, the team made base camp and Camp 1 on the Gompe Tokpo Glacier, and then climbed a steep ice couloir leading to the broad col between Peak 6,431m (T16) and Peak 6,162m (T19). The team fixed ropes up the couloir, negotiating a 70m section of 60° and dodging rockfall due to strong sunshine, before reaching the col through knee-deep snow in late afternoon. They pitched two tents on the 10m-wide, boulder-strewn col, which they recorded as having an altitude of 6,009m and coordinates of 33°23'20"N, 76°48'25"E. Standing on the col between the two higher mountains is the rocky pyramid Peak 6,184m (T18). After the Sherpas failed to find a route to either Peaks 6,431m or 6,162m that evening, the team opted to attempt this other summit the following day.

Leaving at 6:30 a.m., Subrata Dey, Rajeev Kumar (leader), Aadrito Paul, Ganesh Saha, Arun Sen, and Sherpas Dawa, Pasang, and Purba fixed ca 850m of rope from the tents to the foot of the rocky west ridge of T18, and then up over loose rock and snow to the summit, which they measured as 6,212m. The time was 9:30 a.m., and by 4:30 p.m. they were back at Camp 1.

Lindsay Griffin, with information from the editors of The Himalayan Journal



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