Over two days in September 2014, Ryan Brooks and I free climbed a new route on the big- wall sector of Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch. The route ascends seven pitches over roughly 800’ and contains some of the best and worst Cannon has to offer. As this is a link-up of three old aid routes (The Ghost, Ghost Roof, and Hierophant Tower), no new protection bolts were added, but three decaying anchors were updated. It is a very direct and natural line that avoids the bolt ladders on the Ghost.

On our first attempt, we sussed out the lower pitches and rapped from below pitch five, the Ghost Roof. We returned a week later and free climbed from the ground to the summit. The crux comes early on the third pitch in the form of a viciously thin face (5.12) and continues for another 80’ up fun, bouldery, and spicy 5.10. However, the real crux may have been freeing the Ghost Roof (A4, Ellms-Middleton-Tuthill, 1978). Though probably only 5.10 or 5.11, the lead involved run-out climbing on loose, wet rock over a blindly placed Pecker. Having shared countless memorable days on New England’s most adventurous crag, Ryan and I were proud to unlock Ghostrider (800’, 5.12, mandatory 5.10 R) from Cannon’s fractured flanks.

[Editor’s note: In August 2015, Michael Larson and Will Carey free climbed the Ghost (800’, 5.12+), first climbed by Bragg-Peloquin-Ross in 1971, in its entirety, adding bolts to the second and third pitches to protect free climbing.]

– Jeff Previte