Eamonn Walsh, Carl Diehl, and I spent approximately one month (mid-April to mid-May) in the northwestern pocket of the Lowell Glacier, within Kluane National Park. After flying in, we set up camp below the north side of the Weisshorn, with the south face of Mt. Kennedy to the north and Mt. McKim to the west. We hoped to climb new routes on the north-facing walls of the Weisshorn (11,620’; see AAJ 1977 for information on the first ascent by its south side) and Mt. McKim (11,995’; McKim is an unofficial name for this peak, otherwise known as Kennedy South, first climbed in 2003) but underestimated the danger of cornices and seracs. Thus, we turned our attention to less steep but safer lines.

We first completed the north ridge of the Weisshorn, a beautiful snow ridge with short bits of moderate mixed climbing (III). A few days later, we skied north and scrambled up a small peak east of Mt. Kennedy, possibly a first ascent. Finally, we climbed a straightforward line of snow and glacial ice up a tower-like peak on the ridgeline east of Mt. Kennedy.

Jay Mills, Canada